Fork it Over
If you own a GM vehicle that is equipped with a manual transmission and you want to eliminate some of the binding in the stock clutch linkage, then purchase from Chevrolet #3887177 fork for the Corvette.
This fork fits all GM bell housings, (Chevy II, and Vega/Monza don’t count, along with anything built after ’82) A new lower pushrod must be manufactured using either a Mr.Gasket 2477, or two spherical rod ends as I did.
If you go the rod end route, the pushrod end of the fork must be ground out to allow the width of the rod end to fit between the ears. The advantage of all this is that the lower pushrod cannot fall out, and has a real pivot point instead of the funky stock stuff.
Just like those GM guys…save the good stuff for the ‘Vette.
Autotronic Controls Corporation If you are going to install a DIS-4 ignition amplifier on a 97-99 4.6L Mustang then you need to know the following. In order for the unit to function correctly on Ford’s distributorless ignition system two 2-channel tach signal amplifiers must be purchased.
The part number for these is 8912, which is NOT...
Clean CFM
The results of my own testing of a K&N element and X-Stream top is here for all of you to benefit from. Tests were conducted at 28” H2O on a Superflow 1020. Tests were conducted with several different Holley main bodies and even a Race Demon RS to ensure accuracy.The parts in this test consist of a K&N E-1650 element, a 66-1400 top, and a Moroso 659XX 14” drop base. The average pressure drop per venture was one cubic foot of air! I’ll give up four CFM for extended engine life and not miss that one bit!
Want to know what I got out of a K&N stub stack added to a Holley #0-4779-750 carb? Seven CFM per hole, and I didn’t do anything more than removing the choke shaft and plate, and installing the K&N contoured air entry! Now you know how to gain 24 CFM and protect your investment!
Examining the “Over-Kill” fallacyIf there’s one thing I’ve heard over and over from visitors to trade shows and races it’s,“Your fasteners are great.
I’m not having any problems but I’m being told, by your competitors, that ARP® is over-kill and therefore I’m...Moroso Tech Tip
Keeping your high performance engine running cool at higher speeds takes more than a good, clean radiator. In fact, operating your engine at higher RPMs for extended periods of time can actually hurt the cooling system’s efficiency. The reason lies with the speed of water as it travels through the engine.
As engine speed increases, so does water pump speed. The faster the engine, the faster water is pumped through the cooling passages of the block and head. At first, this may sound like a positive thing. And for drag racing applications where the runs are short, it is. However, for oval track racing and street performance applications, it’s not!
Water needs to absorb heat as it travels through the engine. If traveling too fast, water cannot absorb heat and carry it to the radiator. Additionally, a water pump that “over-speeds” is prone to cavitation.
There are a few simple modifications that can be done to reduce water velocity. One is to change the crankshaft and/or water pump pulleys to obtain slower speeds and prevent water pump cavitation.
The other is to install aluminum restrictor plates under the water outlet on the intake manifold. Both allow the coolant to absorb more...